Gentry Essentials: The Flannel Shirt
No longer merely the everydaywear of skaterats, grunge enthusiasts, lumberjacks, and gay clones, the flannel shirt is making a comeback in the closets of style conscious men.
As London braces itself for its coldest winter in many years, the timing couldn’t be better to slip on a cosy classic…
First, a word about terminology. Flannel shirts aren’t actually made from flannel, which is officially a fabric woven from wool, with a fluffed up, nappy quality to it that makes it especially soft. Think grey flannel trousers. Flannel shirts are made from soft brushed cotton, not wool (and not cotton twill, not broadcloth, not poplin); they’re at their best in a simple check, plaid or a classic tartan. As for shirtcare, the only must-do is wash liberally because your shirt will soften and become that bit more covetable each time.
A bit like Linus’s blanket, flannel shirts are the stuff of devotion, and there’s nothing quite as satisfying or reassuring as putting on a flannel shirt you’ve owned for years. I still wear one from school (well, not so much wear, since it’s tiny, as keep it hanging in my wardrobe). So that Gentrystyle readers don’t miss out on this must-have, here’s our pick of some of the best flannel shirts on offer.
One of the longstanding authentic manufacturers of American outdoorsy wear, Woolrich Woolen Mills has recently revamped and renewed itself under the eye of Japanese designer, Daiki Suzuki. The result? ‘Garments with a purpose’ and a stylish twist. The Cruiser shirt is one among several here that will serve you well. For a similarly modern take on an old classic, LA-based clothing company Ever updates the flannel shirt nicely, with epaulets on the shoulders, in a black/grey or red/dark red plaid.
There is a sporty crossover between the Western shirt and the flannel. For the rockabilly cowboy in you, check out Rockmount Ranchwear, based in the mile-high city, Denver, Colorado. This is the real buckaroo, as worn by the Brokeback boys, among many others. The turquoise check with diamond snap buttons is an eye-catcher, but don’t shy away from the patterns, either. For another traditional shirt, east coast rather than west, seek out LL Bean, the original outdoor store from Maine. They vary the tartans offered from year to year, but the black watch pattern is available now so snap it up.
Although ‘luxury’ isn’t a word often used to describe flannel shirts, it’s the only possible word to describe Ralph Lauren's Purple Label Herringbone shirt, made from Italian cotton flannel. For a more modest option by the lesser Polo, see the pretty perfect Slim Custom-Fit Yukon flannel, in black and burgundy check. Also upmarket, try Emmett London’s double-cuffed brushed cotton herringbone shirt in a fetching, sturdy blue. The same eye for detail and fresh tailoring that make their dress shirts so brilliant are brought to bear on the more humble flannel.
Another worthy contender — and one of our favourites — is this catchy blue plaid number from Shirt by Shirt.
Looser, lighter than the rest, it's unbelievably durable and elegantly stylish… well worth the price. They call it the "Nirvana", for reasons that should be apparent…
And by way of a further homage to Kurt Cobain, style-leader and flannel shirt-wearer, here’s Patti Smith singing ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’.
Related Features:
- Gentry's summer essentials: Tee time
- Gentry Essentials: Gingham
- Gentry winter essentials: Military coats
- Gentry Essentials: Swim Shorts
- Gentry Essentials: ONETrueSaxon Jeans


